I drove two and a half hours to have lunch in Jenner on Saturday.
I left early, thinking I’d walk in the roadside parks and stare at the Pacific for a couple of hours before dining. But my body thought differently. Hungry, with that nagging feeling from going too long without a restroom, I pulled into something calling itself a “cafe” that I’d never previously noticed. With a view of the Russian River where it hits the sea, the placed seemed idyllic for a cup of coffee and, hopefully, something edible.
I first sought the sign announcing “Restroom” and followed its arrow — right into a wall. Questioning the clerk yielded the information that the restroom was two parking lots north at the visitor’s center. When I finally realized that she wasn’t joking, I trudged outside, pecked my way around two buildings and over a small wall, and finally found the brick all-gender outhouses.
Back at the cafe, I strained to see the tiny print of the overhead menu. I asked for a paper menu and she snapped, Outside, taped to the door. I went outside, got in my car, and drove to the next open establishment calling itself a “restaurant”. Surrounded with lovely trees and on the banks of the Russian River, this place looked more promising. I asked the woman if they were, indeed, open and she said, with a charming accent, “Yes and no”. Apparently, they had tea, coffee, and pastries until noon when they served food for a few hours. I didn’t really understand, but accepted the information and the offered outside table. A smiling young man brought over a delicious cup of tea with leaves sinking to the bottom of the delicate cup and a pastry with an unpronounceable Russian name. When I went to pay, the lady gestured to a large vase and said, “Put money there, whatever you feel like paying.” My confusion deepened, but I fished for money, threw some in the jar and thanked her. “Of course,” she replied.
I smiled and made my way back outside. Afterwards, I discovered that I had been somewhere special; I’ll definitely return to the Russian House, now that I’ve found it.
Two hours of meandering later, I realized that I did, after all, need lunch. I found a place on Bodega Bay. A woman whose beaming smile showed in her eyes above a flowered mask carried two fish tacos (local, caught that morning) and a cold glass of Chardonnay to a table on the patio. I watched the gulls skimming the water as the tension eased from my body.
I passed the rest of the day with abandon. I stopped at Goat Rock Beach, random roadside turn-outs, and small bluffs as far south as Stinson Beach. With a back-up reservation at a Mill Valley motel, I took my time, enjoying the sharp smell of the ocean and the cool wind flowing inland from somewhere near the horizon. As evening gathered, I resigned myself to a clean room in an old building because I was, frankly, too tired for the two-hour drive home, I treated myself to a vegetarian cassoulet at a restaurant where everyone wore masks without shame or hesitation. One couple had color-coordinated both their attire and their face coverings. Customers and staff alike seemed glad to be back to some semblance of normalcy.
I fell asleep at 9:00 p.m. in an accessible room with more square footage than my entire house. Halfway to Sacramento in the morning, I stopped for breakfast served in a parking lot at a Denny’s off I-80. I got to the Del Paso Avenue Safeway just in time for my second Moderna vaccine.
My Saturday at the Ocean might sound boring to some, but for me, it’s a fine, fine life.
It’s the seventh day of the eighty-seventh month of My Year Without Complaining. Life continues.
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